14.05.2019 Wieder einmal in einem meiner Lieblingsgebiete unterwegs: Faja da Nogueira

Course

I love the area above Faja da Nogueira: the vegetation here is so particular, and the levadas here are among the most spectacular on Madeira. So the four of us (Issi, Regina, Piet and I) were able to spend a beautiful day in perfect weather.

Until now I had always climbed to the Levada da Serra do Faial on the dusty gravel track. Today we looked for the start of the path to the levada house. Where it ought to be, the slope has slipped quite a bit, but a little higher up you can see a clear, if narrow, trodden path that leads up to the well-preserved path. Possibly the first part has slipped and has not (yet) been put back in order.

Once you are on the path, it goes without any trouble at a steady gradient, first up to the height of the lombo and finally on the broad ridge up to the first levada house. On the roof, by the way, you can see a rusted-through but otherwise still well-preserved mine cart from the time when the Pico Ruivo tunnel was built.

We first walked against the direction of flow of the levada, but there was hardly any water in the levada bed. We actually wanted to find out whether, after last year's landslide, the levada is walkable as far as the Ribeira Seca. A good deal has come down, but as far as the first long tunnel it is easy to walk. After that another 200 metres or so, and then there is a sign and a barrier.

I still could not resist looking at the whole thing from close up. The path is narrow and slippery, and you should not stumble here, but I did get to the other side. It is not entirely without danger, though, and you never know whether the landslide above, and the loosened stones and trees, are stable. So no walking recommendation from me.

We turned round here, back to the levada house, and on along the levada high above Faja da Nogueira. The tunnels here are simply beautiful, the exposed spots in the vertical rock face are exciting, and the views are overwhelming. At the bridge over the Ribeira da Faja da Nogueira we explored both feeder levadas, and before that also the steep inflow from a side stream.

As soon as you change to the other side of the valley at the bridge, the picture changes: ferns in the rock faces, everything relatively damp, and the two cuttings to the caldeirões, with their waterfalls backed in green, very imposing.

Finally we came to the tunnel at Pico da Nogueira, through it into the valley of the Ribeira das Lajes, on along the Levada Nova do Juncal, through the 20-minute tunnel with the pipe running the opposite way, to the Ribeira do Juncal, and from here through 2 shorter tunnels again to the Madre with the standing stone.

On the way back, a short detour to the side Madre in the Ribeira do Juncal and, of course, as every time, up the ladder in the Ribeira das Lajes, this time as far as the Caldeirao da Nogueira, because there is a geocache up there....

Then on the narrow path to the surge chamber and the start of the penstock, with a beautiful miradouro.

Then the descent to the houses with the aggressive dog and the cave houses, and on along the path back to the starting point.

On the way back from the power station I had a closer look at the newly restored Madre of the Levada das Cruzinhas. A lot of work has been done there. Further down, a road now goes up from the Nogueira track to the levada. I am curious to see how it looks in the end!

Distance: 18.7 Km, 590 Hm ascent, 590 Hm descent

Start: 11.15 Faja da Nogueira power station

End

18.00 Faja da Nogueira power station

Condition

A demanding walk that you have to take on with concentration from start to finish. The levadas are not really protected; the railings are more psychological than anything else!

Remarks

In theory it is possible to go from the levada house to the Ribeira Seca, but some alpine or Madeira experience is certainly needed.

Thanks: Thank you to Issi, Regina and Piet for coming along!