Abrigo do Pastor

If you're looking for a truly authentic Madeiran dining experience, this is one of our absolute favourites on the island. Hidden away in the middle of the forest, with virtually nothing else around, the restaurant feels more like a huge traditional wooden mountain hut than a typical restaurant. It's the kind of place you probably wouldn't stumble across by accident – yet it's incredibly popular with locals, and once you're there, it's easy to understand why. One of the things we particularly recommend is the picado. You might not even find it on the regular menu, so don't hesitate to ask for it. Besides the more familiar versions, they also serve picado with meats you rarely come across in the more tourist-oriented restaurants, including rabbit. Order one for the table and share it – portions are generous, the food is delicious and the value for money is hard to beat. And definitely save some room for dessert. Their homemade chocolate mousse is served straight to the table and is dangerously good. For us, this is Madeira at its best: authentic, unpretentious, full of locals and genuinely good food in a setting you won't easily forget.