Pico da Cruz & Trompica

Most people on Madeira walk trails. We followed connections. Starting somewhere between Partilha and Chão da Viúva, two names that don’t sound like much, but already tell you: this is not a typical hike. These are not places you “visit”. They are places you pass through. From the beginning, the route feels different. You move through areas like Aviceiros, Vacarias, Chão dos Terreiros: old working zones, not built for hiking, but for life. Agriculture. Forestry. Access. You’re not following a single trail. You’re moving through a system. One moment you’re on an estradão (wide dirt road), easy, open, almost too comfortable. Then suddenly you drop into a ribeira (mountain stream valley), and everything changes. The terrain tightens. The air gets heavier. You slow down. Further along, you reach areas like Ponta do Espigão and Eira do Grilo. And this is where Madeira shows its scale. Deep views over the island. Ridges stacking into the distance. And down below, the massive cut of the Serra de Água valley. No viewpoints. No fences. Just space. Then you go back in. Into sections like corta-mato castanheiros (chestnut clearing trails), where the path almost disappears between trees and vegetation. This is where you stop “following a trail”. You just move and follow the GPX. At some point, you pass the Posto Florestal da Trompica (forest station). Most people don’t realize what these places are. They were and still are used to manage the forest, coordinate work in remote areas, and maintain access to parts of the island that were never meant to be easy to reach. This is infrastructure. Not tourism. And you feel that everywhere on this route. Nothing here was built to impress you. The section towards Pico da Cruz is not about reaching a summit. It’s about everything that happens before it. All the transitions. All the small lines connecting the bigger picture. Through Lombo do Espigão, Estrada das Fontes (forest road), Lugar da Serra, Terreiros, you keep moving between worlds. Open. Closed. Wide. Narrow. And that’s exactly what defines this area. Not one highlight, but constant change. One thing, though, doesn’t fit into this picture. Some of these estradões (dirt access roads) are now used by 4x4 tours. Not many, but enough to notice. And honestly… it feels wrong. Because this is exactly the kind of terrain that should stay quiet. Madeira is known for respecting its nature. Locals take pride in that, which makes it even harder to understand why places like this are slowly being opened to vehicles. That’s why I leave the main lines whenever I can. Whenever there’s a smaller path, I take it. Because that’s where Madeira still feels real. And somewhere along the way, you realize: You’re not hiking a trail. You’re moving through history. Most people will never see this side of the island. Not because it’s hidden, but because they never leave the obvious path. If you know, you know. Important Conditions & Safety This hike is highly dependent on conditions and should never be underestimated. You should only attempt it if there has been no heavy rain in the days before and the river flow is manageable. Otherwise, crossings can quickly become dangerous. Proper hiking shoes are essential, and you should bring enough water and food, as there are no facilities along the way. It’s also important to be prepared for temperature changes deeper in the valley. Important Notes for This Hike This is not a marked trail, and that’s exactly what defines it. You should be comfortable with route finding and not get nervous if the path is not always clearly visible. Experience with uneven terrain and exposure is important, as well as the ability to stay focused throughout the hike. While it is possible to do this hike independently, it requires awareness, confidence, and respect for the terrain. If you prefer not to go alone, you can also book these hikes as guided tours with Madeira Hiking via the website link. With Madeira Unlocked, you’ll even get 30% off.