13 May 2019 A new ascent from Meia Legua to Eira do Mourão, and the puzzles of the madres of the Levadas de Baixo and Meio

Course

In January, Madeira Lés a Lés posted a report on Facebook about the cleaning and restoration of the old Vereda do Cabouco. It is an old, forgotten path from Meia Legua, past old cave houses and ruined remains, to Eira do Mourao. I wanted to explore it with Issi today. A few questions had also come up about the Madre of the Levada de Baixo, which we wanted to clear up, and finally there is still the gorge of the Ribeira Funda from the Madre of the Levada do Meio, under the bridge of the Levada do Norte, which I absolutely wanted to see with my own eyes. So much for the day's questions.

We met at the Miradouro do Forte, or Pico da Cruz, above Ribeira Brava, and left one car there. With the second car we drove to Meia Legua, behind the Continente, over the bridge and to the end of the road at the water reservoir, which was to become our reference point on the first part of the ascent.

First we had to find the access to the Vereda do Cabouco. Somehow, over steps, field paths and bridges, we came to the unmistakable path, though the actual start would have been further north-west. At first it goes south-east as far as a hairpin, then in places somewhat exposed, but always on a relatively broad path with many old stone steps, heading north-east. Later there is a fine view of an impressive waterfall. Then the crux, over steep steps secured with a well-fixed rope. It is really needed more for the descent, because the ground here is a little slippery. And shortly after the rope it is steep without steps, and a little more slippery still. Although it is not exposed, you do have to take care here.

Then on over good steps. Here 3 goats came towards us, visibly pleased to have visitors. After a short traverse you stand in front of the cave house we had already admired in the Lés a Lés report.

After that the path goes round the lombo and you stand in front of 3 ruined houses, which also have living rooms partly in rock caves. A kitchen where you had the impression that a woman was just about to step up to the stove and light a fire. Everything in perfect order, only the houses are definitely no longer habitable.

Then it continues steeply, past another ruined house, quite steeply up on the lombo, and then into a traverse below the last houses of Eira do Mourao. Here the vegetation changes abruptly. Sorrel and nettles dominate, which I have otherwise rarely seen on Madeira. As near an alpine hut; this area is presumably somewhat over-fertilised. With what, we preferred not to know too precisely. And so we reached the slab path below Eira do Mourao, by the ruined houses.

The last steps up to Eira do Mourao, and on a small levada above the fields, southwards. After the end of the levada the path becomes a little confusing. Eventually we came to the bridge over the Ribeira Funda and onto the Levada de Baixo. On this, as far as the stream bed. That, in 2014, had been the Madre for me. On her walk in January 2018, though, Issi had the impression that the Madre lies further on. On a small path you can continue beside the Ribeira Funda. When the Levada do Meio is carrying water and releases it downwards at its premature end, you also see a waterfall coming down from above here (see also Issi's report (image 12)). You come to a little water hut whose purpose we did not understand. Through a small pipe, water from a spring is led onto the ground; from here it goes into the Ribeira Funda. Beside it, a few wet, slippery steps lead up, and you stand in front of a small poço whose water spills onto the steps and in front of the little water house. The poço is fed by a small levada, which we affectionately and pragmatically named 'Levadinha de Baixo superior'. About 30 metres upstream it takes the water from the Ribeira Funda and bridges a larger cauldron, from which something was croaking suspiciously loudly. Possibly this pool, where the water threatens to sink away, is bypassed by the small levada superior. Speculation...

The path now climbs very steeply to the Levada do Meio. First, briefly, to the premature end, where as in 2014 the water is released over a waterfall into the Ribeira Funda. Today, though, the levada was dry, so there was no waterfall into the Ribeira Funda either!

On the Levada do Meio to the Madre in the dry Ribeira Funda. Here I went on alone, through the bramble curtain, to the imposing gorge. Vertical walls, little daylight, and further on, high above, the bridge of the Levada do Norte over the gorge. It continues for a while yet, until it becomes a little harder to make progress. Back to the Madre, by the same path to the Levada de Baixo, and on this, in the direction of flow, as far as the first houses. Definitely a relatively safe, interesting, varied levada with fine views, and one of my favourites!

From here, avoiding roads as far as possible and with Issi leading, precisely to the Jamaica Bar right by the miradouro, where our first car stood.

Distance: 9.1 Km, 420 Hm ascent, 480 Hm descent

Start: 09.35 Meia Legua

End

15.10 Ribeira Brava

Condition

A relatively demanding ascent. The path is mostly clearly recognisable and, by Madeira standards, in good condition. The traverse to the Levada de Baixo is quite overgrown; sure footing is needed. The Madre area of the Levada de Baixo is a little overgrown and wild. The ascent over the wet steps can be done with care. The gorge of the Ribeira Funda, once you have got through the bramble curtain, is simply overwhelming. The Levada de Baixo is exposed in places, but never really dangerous, because it is wide enough.

Remarks

I would recommend the ascent to Eira do Mourao to sure-footed, experienced walkers, perhaps rather in ascent because of the ground and the route-finding, and then if need be a descent by the classic stepped path.

Thanks: Thank you to Issi for scouting the Madre area of the Levada de Baixo beforehand, and for coming along. It was great fun!