5 August 2021 On one of the finest sections of the Levada Nova between Arco da Calheta and Canhas

Course

With a detour over the Paul da Serra, where we had originally meant to walk but in the fog could hardly see a hand in front of our faces, we fled below the clouds and ended up in Arco da Calheta. We parked at the crossing of the Caminho Cales e Chade (the middle one of the 3 roads up to the Paul da Serra) and the Levada Nova. From here we walked along the levada in the direction of flow, in wonderful walking weather.

We had paid a short visit to the middle section from Pinheiro in 2016; today we wanted a closer look at the area with the 3 spectacular passages of the Ribeira da Madalena. And we really did find 2 gems!

At first it starts in typical Nova fashion, rather dull through eucalyptus, but with fine views south to Arco da Calheta.

After a water house it gets more interesting: the next section is in places a little exposed, and the railings look badly worn. I had not known before that there is a tunnel here, short though it is. Above us we heard chainsaw noise, and suddenly an eerie rumbling like falling trunks or blocks of rock. We ducked straight into the tunnel; luckily a false alarm. But it showed us once again what dangerous country these levadas were built in.

We had already savoured the first stream crossing last time; I crawled, or rather walked, up to the levada crossing that cannot be walked, once more from both sides. A bit short of water today, but still very impressive. The spot can be bypassed on a small bypass path and a bridge.

After that come the lowest houses of Pinheiro, and you go into the next cut to the second passage of the Ribeira. A fairly exposed approach, with railings torn away in places, but no problem to walk. We crossed the bridge without knowing at that point what lay further in. More on that on the way back.

The following section is mostly without railings and also a little exposed, as far as the third passage of the Ribeira. At the bridge I found a feeder levada, which I followed to the Madre, and it led me into a spectacular narrow gorge. Quite eerie back in there, but beautiful.

On along the main levada, still a little exposed and later, on concrete slabs, easy again, but quite sheer above the depths of the gorge of the Ribeira da Madalena.

The scenery changes abruptly: still in the middle of the gorge you turn a corner and suddenly stand in the green fields of Barreiro e Feiteiras. Through green gardens and along houses we followed the levada a little further and paid a visit to the striking levada dividers of the Levada Velha das Canhas in Barreiro, which we had been able to visit in 2019.

From here back the same way. At the middle stream passage I found a trodden path that leads further into the gorge and at first ends at a waterfall. An improvised ladder stands here, and because a ladder like that is usually there for a reason, I climbed up and found a wonderful gorge with a Poço and another waterfall. Absolutely brilliant.

We enjoyed the scene here at length, and when wisps of mist together with the sun produced a wonderful play of light, we felt as if we were in paradise.

From here, with no further noises from above, back through the steep rock face to the start.

Distance: 18 km, 50 m of ascent, 50 m of descent

Start: 10.15 Arco da Calheta

End

15.35 Arco da Calheta

Condition

The Levada Nova is actually no problem to walk; there is some damage on the path, and railings are often broken off or lie or hang in the drop. A bit of a head for heights and sure footing are needed.

The gorge section in the middle stream cut, with the ladder, is not entirely easy, especially the climb back down to the ladder; you should bring a little scrambling experience.

Remarks

The 3 stream crossings are definitely worth a visit!